"The only thing that should surprise us is
that there are still some things that can surprise us."
Francois de La Rochefoucauld
When you hear "El Salvador" what do you think? I have to confess all this 'rubia tonta' could remember was some vague recollection of a civil war and a confused frown as to the exact geographical location. My best guess was somewhere in the middle of the jigsaw puzzle of tiny countries that make up Central America. My ignorant reaction was to label it as a war scarred 3rd world jungle and in my idiocy I threw in some imaginary exotic diseases and wrote it off as a ridiculous place to be thinking of taking kids. Yet here I sit sipping yet another Michelada beer concoction enjoying the hospitality of wonderful people in a 5 star setting, staring out to sea watching the never ending wave machine of Punta Sunzal.
"The traveler sees what he sees,
the tourist sees what he has come to see."
Gilbert K. Chesterton
We came to El Salvador in search of righthand point breaks and surf so maybe that made us tourists of the first order? Stepping out of the cool shade of the airport into the midday heat of the concrete parking lot hit us all hard. A gnarled old lady begging on the sidewalk partially blocked my view of our SUV ride to the hotel. So this was a place of extremes? At least she was old which suggested access to medicine and the SUV was not brand new which lessened my privileged Western guilt overload. Once the bags were loaded our new best friend and driver Adrian, drove us off towards the ocean and Casa Del Mar.
El Salvador, 'The Savior', is the smallest country in Central America, around the size of Israel. Driving from the airport, the roads are straight and in great condition. With little other traffic, in less than 30 minutes, we were negotiating through the narrower streets of La Libertad with only a few miles left until our destination. It's kind of liberating having no real clue what to expect. It was most unlike me to not have read a shed load of tourist gumf and have a 'to do/see' list.
For now I was happy to sit back and survey the scenery. This land of coffee and sugarcane has over 6 million people, with around 2 million living in the capital San Salvador. The biggest export earner is the people, over 1 million los hermanos lejanos (the faraway brothers and sisters) live in the US and send money back.
The gates of the hotel rolled back on our arrival and we swung into a cobbled parking lot on a cliff overlooking the ocean. After a warm welcome we meandered down to sea level and followed our suitcases to a large airy room which would be our casa for the next month. Winding on through the foliage, a warm smiled spread across my face as I took in a vista of the surf spot from our secure bubble.
"My connection to the earth is reinforced through the rhythm of the waves."
Mike Dolan
To say I was happy was an understatement or was that just relief? Our new home had ample surf, internet, swimming pool, great restaurant and even a ping pong table!
"Don't be alarmed, it's only my wife laughing."
Basil Fawlty
First things first, it was imperative to check out the pool temperature. If the kids spend any more time in the water they are going to grow webbed feet.
"Chlorine is my perfume."
Author Unknown
Even the crabs seemed happy to see us. Casa Del Mar is one of those places that just chills you right out from the get go. It was so effortless to make instant friends with all the staff and everyone staying there because its so easy going and intimate.
Very quickly we have slipped into a life of surf, swimming and story telling. I feel as if we have been here forever or maybe we have just become quicker at the nesting process?
"Bloom where you are planted."
Mary Engelbreit
