yummy Carmelo

“Great restaurants are, of course, nothing but mouth-brothels. 

There is no point in going to them if one intends to keep one’s belt buckled.”

Frederic Raphael

Carmelo is about a five hour drive from Punta del Este up the estuary of the River Plate.  This fertile, rolling scenery is wine country and what better place to head to for Kit's birthday.  Convoying out of Punta, we meandered along the empty roads for a couple of hours or so following the Rambla road along the coast.  Conveniently we rolled  into Montevideo around midday and decided to stop for lunch.

"When late morning rolls around and you’re feeling a bit out of sorts, don’t worry; you’re probably just a little eleven o’clockish.” – Winnie the Pooh

As cities go, Montevideo really is charming with European architecture, Latin American flare and southern hemisphere population numbers.  Voted the city with the best standard of living in South America, Montevideo is a wonderful mix of ornate, old Euro style buildings littered with the glass and concrete of modern sky scrapers.   This capital city historically evolved as a strategical naval position from the Spanish colonial days.  Which means the modern city skyline contours along the beautiful beaches of the South Atlantic before stretches north past the port and into the Estuary of the River Plate.

Injection into the fast pace of the city centre broke us out of our rustic reverie.      In jeans and trainers, my inner rural hick pricked with self consciousness amongst all the urban vanity of the black pinstripe city slickers.  The office types crowded our parilla (bbq) restaurant, tucked down a narrow cobbled street.  The worn wooden floors and large glass windows smacked of a bygone era and a Parisienne cafe lifestyle.  The amount of meat that arrived on every plate was enough to start a food program in a small African nation.  I guess the meat feeding frenzy was something we would need to get used to.  After Carmelo, we would be headed across the River Plate from Colonia over to Buenos Aries and into true carnivore country.  Revived by food, we headed off for a couple more hours of driving following the river north through farming country.

"The true meaning of life is to plant trees, 

under whose shade you do not expect to sit."

Nelson Henderson

It was late afternoon as we followed the signs into Carmello proper.  A tall tunnel of trees heralded us into the outskirts.  A single lane, iron bridge introduced us into the town while we played chicken with a semitrailer heading out.  The small settlement lined the river until the quaint old buildings petered out as we headed out of town in the vague direction of the Four Seasons Hotel. Several Spanglish encounters with flat capped locals left us confused and lost, so we decided to pull out the Iphone translator and get technically fluent with our request for directions.  Finally a gentleman about to climb into a manhole steered us right and we pulled through the wooden entrance gates of the resort as the sun started to fall below the tree line.  

The wood chipping under the car hire tires made little sound as the pine forest closed in around us.  A large wooden carved head totem welcomed us to the front entrance of a low slung log house that reminisced of a ski lodge.  Stretching, we unloaded and were presented with hot apple cider as we were ushered through the doors.  The five star service had really begun in earnest by the time we wandered through the eclectic decor of the lobby.  A mix of Balinese style and mountain retreat furniture glowed warmly in the light of the log fires dotted throughout.  Wooden panelling mixed with wrought iron framed the massive view out over the gargantuan swimming pool which dropped, in illusion, into the brown waters of the River Plate.  The two story rooms were more like an upscale Swiss chalet and my inner rural hick self was starting to look for the goats.  The downstairs lounge converted into two beds for the kids and upstairs the four poster bed was a few slippered, robed footsteps from a bathtub that would provide ample water for the afore mentioned small African Nation.  

There is no love sincerer than the love of food.

George Bernard ShawI

Supper in the dining room overlooking the river was a laidback affair with few others sharing our space.  Over the coming weekend the hotel had been totally booked out by an Argentinian who wanted to celebrate his birthday in privacy.  After discovering the indoor pool and spa I could totally see why.  

"Chess is intellectual gymnastics." 

Wilhelm Steinitz

We awoke the next morning to a sumptuous feast, buffet style breakfast and a plan to leave the kids in the Kid's Club and head off to the winery Narbona.  Many happy returns to Kit who, as usual, returned the happiness to everyone happy around her.

"Some people care too much, I think it's called love."

Winnie the Pooh

Winding up the narrow roads was a twist back in time.  Pulling into the forecourt of the Winery next to vintage cars and geranium laden ox carts.  Squinting from the bright sunlight we stepped inside to an age old world of wine.

"We are all mortal until the first kiss and the second glass of wine."

Eduardo Galeano

Rich soils and warm river breezes have made the area a historic haven for winemakers. Dating back to 1909 the Narbona legacy is Italian.  The original winemaker brought Tannat vines from the old country and created his Uraguayan estancia.  Unfortunately none of his four daughters had wanted to continue his tradition.  An Argentinian businessman recently bought the property and revived the old vines and planted new ones.  

However, it still felt like stepping back into old world Italy as we toured the original winery and descended into the cellars to discover home cured hams and farm fresh cheeses.

“A meal without some cheese is like a beautiful woman with only one eye”.

Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin

Our guide Valerie, a beautiful young Uruguayan vitner, had spent time in Napa and was to be credited with crafting the new wines of Narbona.  It was a fascinating walk from the hold cellars over to the stainless steel production area. Overflowing with passion, Valerie explained the scientific process of wine making and the huge copper vat distillery for the delicate honey grappa. 

"Wine is bottled poetry" Robert Louis Stevenson

Honey Grappa, home made biscotti and pasta! This was serious gastronomy heaven.  We sat down to a lunch that paired Narbonna Rose, Pinot Noir and Tannat with their parmesan, colonia and mozzerella  and finished with the salty home cured hams.

While we were in our own duodenal delirium the kids were in cookie contentment with the Chef back at the Four Seasons.

"There are four basic food groups: milk chocolate, dark chocolate, white chocolate, and chocolate truffles." Anonymous

Children are the living messages we send to a time we will not see." 

John W. Whitehead"

Spending so much time with compadres, sharing birthdays and special moments turns  the friends into family.  Which is fortunate because you can never say goodbye to family merely hasta leugo.  To have been included in the Groner family was truly a privilege and to have them show us Uruguay through their eyes a much appreciated blessing. With love and gratitude (and of course tears) it was time to say our farewell.

Truly great friends are hard to find, difficult to leave, and impossible to forget.
Unknown

The point of the devil?

It finally happened.  I got the GPS lady so confused, she said,
"In one-quarter mile, make a legal stop and ask directions."
Robert Brault

Any doubters whatsoever as to the capability of a fully loaded Prius on a four wheel drive road (or for that matter its capacity for an informal sand spin) can rest assured, the electrically charged can charge through it all.  Needless to say, somewhere between point A  (Punta Del Este) and point B (Punta Del Diablo), we found ourselves off road at point C. What about the inner journey I hear you cry?  What about losing yourself in order to find yourself?  Well this was not actually the road less travelled, it had several large ruts distinguishing it as a well worn farm track.  Indeed we did come up close and personal with many of these agricultural type vehicles.  To while away the extra couple of hours on the detour, Kit and I chatted about the Tudors and the TV merits of Jonathan Rhys Myers as afore mentioned Royal.  Meanwhile the kids expended 3 bush toilet stops for every mouthful of water consumed.   Sounds like a journey from hell?  Well actually it was a journey to hell, to the Point of the Devil.  

The whole Atlantic coast from Punta Del Este to the Brazilian border is breathtaking. Empty white sand beaches, blue rolling seas, reflecting azure skies dotted with powderpuff clouds.  Usually, it's a three hour drive along good roads with hardly any traffic.  About 40kms before the border town of Chuy there is a turn off to Punta del Diablo.  This fishing and artisan village with colorful unique houses and a laid back atmosphere reminded me of Jeffrey's Bay, South Afirca.  With a history of pirates and debauchery it sounded like the perfect place to take a vacation from our vacation.

"The devil is fond of his own." 

Galician Proverb

This is a place where the sand dunes roll down to the granite boulders and the ocean spray.  There are mystic wisps of stories of European Pirates roaming these sea centuries ago.  However any certain historical facts span from only a few decades past. The town's beginnings seem to stem from a weak asthmatic child.  In 1935, Lirio, one of Laureano Rocha's ten children, was advised to dwell by the ocean to regain his health.  The family built a small ranch on land owned by the Martinez family (huge tracts of the land in the area are still owned by the Martinez family).  Lirio fared well in the sunshine and fresh air.  Then during the 1940's fishermen arrived in the area, many decendents from the stormy Galician coast in Spain.  The small wooden boats are still dragged up the beach daily and the catch sold.  

Words divide us, actions unite us." 

Slogan of the Tupamaros

In the 1960's the boats were put to slightly different use.  Uruguay's urban guerrillas were the leftist Tupamaros fighting against the military dictatorship with tactics such as robbing banks, raiding gun depots and kidnapping dignitaries.  Operating out of Punta Diablo the Pinta Roja fishing boat routinely snuck Tupamaros into Brazil during fishing runs.  However, one day the vessel never returned and was assumed sunk - perhaps by a navy gunboat?  Today the boats just have to avoid the odd surfer or sunbather.

"I could not help concluding this man 

had the most supreme pleasure 

while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea" 

Captain James Cook.

The beach front area is an eclectic mix of funky surf shops, restaurants and roadside stands.  Many of the places were only open on the weekend as it was past the summer season, but I kinda like that feeling of semi closed down for the winter.  Not having to hassle through crowds but still able to enjoy a late lunch overlooking the ocean warmed by the afternoon sun.

Zero Stress Cafe really was just that, kicking back sinking a beer watching the kids go rock hopping on the beach.  Best I save some room for that Italian dinner tonight.

"A piece of spaghetti or a military unit 

can only be led from the front end."

George S. Patton

Go Josh ride that pasta pony!  I think I've found the best lasagna ever, in the most unlikely place in the world.  It was definately the biggest piece of lasaga I ever managed to shovel down in one sitting!

Everything you see I owe to spaghetti. Sophia Loren

You can take the girl out of California and .... she immediately goes into a carbo loading frenzy!  What the hey its my birthday!  I'm at the Point of the Devil so why the devil not!  

"Anybody can exercise…but this kind of lethargy takes real discipline" 

Garfiled the Cat

Breakfast delivered to our cute little townhouse, all thats left to do is crawl into the hammock and enjoy the view.  Each house in this amazing town is unique and vying with it's neighbor to be more original and unusual.

“There are three forms of visual art: Painting is art to look at, 

sculpture is art you can walk around, 

and architecture is art you can walk through”

Dan Rice

Junkyard dogs

 

"One man's junk is another man's treasure" Unknown

Just a five minute ride away there was a swap meet and produce market that was a commotion to the senses.  Finding parking proved the first problem as the industrial area was swamped with cars and bikes and people swarming in all directions.  I have to admit there are some pretty cool old cars in Uruguay, I'm not sure if its a trend or a necessity to recycle as vehicles are expensive.  

"An old-timer is one who remembers when it cost more to run a car than to park it." Unknown.

I really like the way that everything is recycled, even the stuff that that looked like a pile of twisted metal.  Uruguay seems to be efficient like that, not wasteful like some places I can mention.  The western world has forgotten how to fix things like hairdryers, TV's and microwaves.  It's assumed its just cheaper to throw it away and buy another new, you can't even find an electrical repair shop.  Maybe it is economic sense for a consumer society, but I'm not sure that's the best way forward.  It doesn't make financial sense in Uruguay because of the import duties and the taxes.   

"The buyer needs a hundred eyes, the seller but one." 

George Herbert 

Books, antiques, furniture, tools, shoes, clothes, pots, light fittings. You name it, it was there, laid out neatly in rows along the streets.  Everyone intently scanning for a bargain or that uniquely rare, 7 inch, 3 amp whatsamathingy.

“Being English, I always laugh at anything to do with the lavatory or bottoms.” Elizabeth Hurley

Okay, so you get my drift about the everything being recycled?  We can move on to the new section and fresh produce.  Oh boy, everything you could think of and everything and some things I wasn't really sure if they were even edible. It was a huge fiesta of dancing around market vendors and purchasers, lining up without squashing anything to have a apron clad marketeer serve you old school style.  

"Don't be afraid to go out on a limb. It's where all the fruit is."             Shirley MacLaine

Some of the produce even had real dirt on it.  Farmer's market deluxe.  The supply line from field to mouth is short in Uruguay as they produce 90% of everything they use.  The tannat grape is a popular variety in Uruguay and the wine is a strong dark red variation.  Talking of addictions, the matte tea is a very South American ritual.  You see people wandering round or driving about holding a small cup with a silver style straw sticking up.  Inside there is a little strainer to pack with your matte.  All you need is a hot water refill now and again. Luckily there are enablers in most of the shops who will gladly refill your flask so you can suck back all day long.

"Let my words, like vegetables, be tender and sweet, 

for tomorrow I may have to eat them." 

Author Unknown

Everything looked so good, Kit and I went ballistic buying far more than we could carry. What the heck, it was so much fun imagining what we could conjure up in the kitchen with it all.  Although hanging out with Kit is always fun, whatever it is we are doing she has a special way of making you smile from the inside out. She is just one of those people who operates on a basis of consideration and goodwill to all those who know her.  Lord knows how she put up with my gormless nattering for 24/7 day after day!  

"A little Consideration, a little Thought for Others, makes all the difference." Winnie the Pooh

"There's so much plastic in this culture that 

vinyl leopard skin is becoming an endangered synthetic" 

Lily Tomlin

Mmm, just what I needed another rubic cube I cant do.  Luckily the kids and Greg were seduced over to a second hand Wii dvd stand where they spent over 30 minutes negotiating with each other and the vendor as to what they would buy.  Laughable really considering after being $20 lighter, not one of the discs worked when we got home.

"What was in there?" Talking Dog

Amazing really that we could spend so much time wandering around, happily whiling away the afternoon.  When Kit and I stumbled upon the pickle and jam stand that seemed to have appeared from yesteryear we managed to restrain ourselves to just one or two - okay maybe three jars.

"When is a cucumber like a strawberry?

When one is in a pickle and the other is in a jam." 

Author Unknown.

Meeting back up at the cheese stand, there was just one last place to visit before home time.  The chicken stall of course.  I won't tell the kids if you won't.  

"It is better to be the head of chicken than the rear end of an ox” 

Japanese Proverb

What does that proverb even mean?  I don't think either animals fate would end well in Uruguay considering there are about 10 million head of cattle, making it the country with the most cows per person.  A real cow and chicken tale.

"Does anybody hear speaka el espanola?" Cow and Chicken Cartoon

"How can you tell when it's rabbit pie for dinner? It has hares in it." 

Unknown

Eostre

“What the hell, go ahead and put all your eggs in one basket” Unknown

Kit is a really smart gal and figured out how to dye the boiled eggs all different colors organically.  She used beetroot for red dye, green was from onion and so on.  But of course we had to have chocolate eggs too, what would an Easter egg hunt be without chocolate?

"Easter spells out beauty, the rare beauty of new life." S.D. Gordon

So I got to thinking about this whole Easter malarky - what was the real meaning behind the Hallmark Easter Bunny?  Yes, of course I know the whole Christian connection, but bunnies and chocolate eggs?  What's that all about then?   Before Christianity there was a Saxon Godess Eostre (mmm sounds a bit Easterish to me).  Eostre was the goddess of fertility and Spring in the Northern Hemisphere.  The rabbits and eggs were a sign of rebirth.  There is even one fable which says that Eostre found a wounded bird and turned it into a hare so it would survive the winter.  So the hare continued to lay eggs.  Bingo! This reasoning is my personal favorite as it gives you a twofer answer.  Whatever your beliefs are, everyone wants to queue up for chance to find chocolate.

"Nine out of ten people like chocolate. 

The tenth person always lies." 

John Q. Tullius

And they are off and running, it's everyone for themself.  Its a big garden and a lot of ground to cover.  

If I look like an egg, think like the egg, be the egg, then maybe I will find the egg?

"Good Idea: Finding Easter eggs on Easter Sunday; 

Bad Idea: Finding Easter eggs at Thanksgiving" Unknown

"There's nothing better than a good friend, 

except a good friend with CHOCOLATE"

 Linda Grayson

The last lesson of the day: if you find the eggs and put them in a big pile and share the eggs out equally its socialism, if you keep the eggs you find its capitalism, if you eat all your eggs and start on everyone else's its chocalism.

"Strength is the ability to break a chocolate bar into four pieces with your bare hands - and then eat just one of those pieces." Judith Viorst

Happy Harbor Days

"Ah, sweet Content, where doth thine harbour hold." 

Barnabe Barnes

Punta del Este Harbor is an eclectic mix of fantastic motor yachts and wooden fishing boats.   The casinos and fancy hotels give rise to a jetset style international vibe when the season is in full swing.  Luckily for me the pressure was off as it was well past season and the only people wandering the waterfront were families and fishermen.  The harbor was given its name Our Lady of Candelaria by Juan Diaz de Solis who was a Spanish sailor cruising around in 1512.  

Personally I didn't really resemble this Patron saint with baby in one hand and candle in the other.  I had abandoned my homeschool victims back at the house with Kit and had persuaded Greg and Steve to swop out the candle for a nice bottle of wine.  Of course we had to try the local drink Clerico.  Its kind of a South American Sangria with Sauvignon Blanc, mixed up with banana, apple, orange, strawberry, grapes and sugar.  

"Wine improves with age. The older I get, the better I like it." Anonymous

A couple of glasses later and I was scooping out the fruit, sucking back, enjoying the Rivera feel to my sophisticated luncheon with the boys.

"A wise woman will always let her husband have her way."

Richard Brinsley Sheridan

Of course Greg wanted a nice shady spot at the back of the wrap around balcony.  That wasn't gonna cut it for homeschool harpie mama.  This was my first time cutting loose all week and I needed to be upfront and people watching.  I think an absolutely fabulous lunch every so often keeps the sanity in check and the homicidal tendencies at bay.  Besides which, the kids would never have the patience to sit and wait for a paella to arrive.

"Never eat more than you can lift"

Miss Piggy

Of course, not including the kids gave me pangs of conscience the next day.  So I decided to do the wander along the esplanade and do the same tour with them only we swopped out the paella for ice cream.  Needless to say they didn't appreciate the scenery in quite the way I had, less then 24 hours previously but it lessened my guilt load.  I've decided to call it guilthood instead of motherhood because I'm always self recriminating myself on some poor parenting technique I just employed.  Oh well, I'll pay for their therapy during the teenage years. 

“Insanity is hereditary. You can catch it from your kids.” 

Erma Bombeck

So now it seemed only fair we should pick up Cary for lunch one day and head over to "The Hand". The Monumento al Ahogado - the "Monument to the Drowned" is a site completely unique to Punta del Este.  A Chilean artist, Mario Irarrazabel, went to Punta in 1982 as one of nine modern open air sculptors.  There was such competition for the best slot in the town square that Mario decided to head to the beach.  He was inspired to create a drowning hand as a warning to the swimmers.  With the whole summer allowed to construct his creation Mario finished in just 6 days, other artists also created structures on the sand, but his is the only one that remains.  He went on to create other similar structures in Chile, Madrid and Venice. 

"Relationships of all kinds are like sand held in your hand. 

Held loosely, with an open hand, the sand remains where it is. 

The minute you close your hand and squeeze tightly to hold on, 

the sand trickles through your fingers. 

You may hold onto some of it, but most will be spilled. 

A relationship is like that. 

Held loosely, with respect and freedom for the other person, i

t is likely to remain intact. But hold too tightly, too possessively, 

and the relationship slips away and is lost." 

Kaleel Jamison

"A sculpture is just a painting cut out and stood up somewhere." 

Frank Stella

Naturally, the kids just saw the whole sculptor thing as a particularly difficult climbing park and they developed an amazing way of getting in everyone else's photographs!  No matter, we didn't stay long.  It was soon time to drive Cary back to school after his 1 hour 20 minute midday break - love that Latino lunch thing.