"It is well that war is so terrible. We should grow too fond of it."
Robert E Lee
The American Civil War of 1861 is possibly one of the most famous worldwide. Conceivably a North-South divide over slavery seems a straightforward explanation as to why there is still so much interest. Digging a little deeper and issues of States' Rights and tariffs gain greater relevance. Perhaps the horrors of 750,000 deaths makes us grotesquely curious for details on why brother would fight brother. Who really knows why we are still drawn to watch Rhett and Scarlett dramatize the humanity of it all. All I can tell you is that I have no family connection to this part of history, but visiting Gettysburg had a gut wrenching effect on me and changed not what I thought of history and death, but how I valued the present and the living.
The events of a war that took place over 150 years ago are still kept very much alive by re-enactments and those that make a livelihood from the historical battlefields. Within this subculture of actors, who play the parts of the soldiers of yesteryear, is a hard core group of zealous re-enactors. They not only don the garb of this bygone era but actually march on foot to the battlefields following the same route the soldiers did. They aim for an authenticity that seems macabre to a day tripper, history tourist such as myself. Robert Lee Hodge is one such "Confederate in the Attic", as the book details his dedication. In everyday life Robert is a waiter, but in his historical garb, with bona fida beard, he is revered for his ability to bloat himself at will to be the most authentic corpse. A most unusual and specific skill indeed.
The events of a war that took place over 150 years ago are still kept very much alive by re-enactments and those that make a livelihood from the historical battlefields. Within this subculture of actors, who play the parts of the soldiers of yesteryear, is a hard core group of zealous re-enactors. They not only don the garb of this bygone era but actually march on foot to the battlefields following the same route the soldiers did. They aim for an authenticity that seems macabre to a day tripper, history tourist such as myself. Robert Lee Hodge is one such "Confederate in the Attic", as the book details his dedication. In everyday life Robert is a waiter, but in his historical garb, with bona fida beard, he is revered for his ability to bloat himself at will to be the most authentic corpse. A most unusual and specific skill indeed.
“We are indeed much more than what we eat, but what we eat can nevertheless help us to be much more than what we are”
Adelle Davis
Perhaps it was with bloating in mind that we stopped for breakfast at an all American Diner in Maryland. Once we had eaten our own body weight in pancakes and pecan pie (yes Greg had pie after breakfast) we resumed our journey and Carrie's stories of Gettysburg. Carrie is a well informed history buff and was also a previous resident, shop and restaurant owner on main street Gettysburg, I relaxed back and soaked it all up. On arrival into the town she pointed out their old house.
"The horrors of war are fully known only to those who have seen and heard
them. It was my lot to see and hear only part, but it was sufficient."
Matilda "Tillie" Pierce
It had been the home of Tillie Pierce who, at 15, witnessed the early days of the Gettysburg battle literally from her own doorstep. Tillie's account would become a best selling book and indeed inspire our own dear Stella's middle name. Once Carrie had pointed out a couple of bullet holes in the walls of their old dwelling I was seriously hooked on the legendary relevance of it all.
"If history were taught in the form of stories, it would never be forgotten."
Rudyard Kipling
I always seem to have such good fortune with my friends of the road. Carrie was our own expert, private story teller who guided us through a tale of the biggest battle of the Civil War. Gettysburg is often considered the turning point of the war, where Lee was turned back and the Northern troops began their advance south. It was our day to learn of the horrors, the tactics, the weapons, the soldiers and the personal stories of those that were there. What better place to start than the Gettysburg Visitors Centre.
"In great deeds something abides. On great fields something stays. Forms change and pass; bodies disappear, but spirits linger, to consecrate ground for the vision-place of souls.”
Colonel Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain
The Gettysburg Visitors Centre is certainly a place which offers an insight into the souls that were present during those fated 3 days in July, 1863. The tour starts with a film so your senses are heightened to the battle cries and carnage of war. In the next darkened room is a Cyclorama which was painted in the 1880's. It captures on canvas the landscape and scenes of the final assault of the Confederate army at Gettysburg. Standing inside a 140 year old painted cylinder 27 ft high and 359 ft long is impressive to say the least. The accuracy of detail in the soldiers, horses and battle scenes make it an outstanding work of art. The Civil War literally surrounds your vision. Actual walls, fences and haystacks are cleverly arranged in the gap between the painting and the viewing platform so history comes up towards you in a 3d manner. It is as if you are on a hill looking off into the distant snapshot of death and destruction.
"A battle lost or won is easily described, understood, and appreciated,
but the moral growth of a great nation requires reflection,
as well as observation, to appreciate it."
Frederick Douglas
After wandering through the displays and artifacts my senses were on overload. I had gone beyond understanding the historical facts, I was now feeling them in my core. I think it was the old sepia photographs of dead soldiers, the uniforms and personal affects of men, long dead and their individual stories written in sloping handwritten letters that upset me the most. The Civil War was riddled with disease and hardships and there was much sawing off of limbs in the hope of keeping life. I needed some fresh air and a new perspective so we headed outside. Wandering along a country trail we came across Union Commander Meade's headquarters, a barn which looks now as it did then. In the background the memorials litter the landscape as the battles did back then. The unchanged scene of rolling fields and farm fences gives the imagination reason to listen hard for distant gunshots.
"we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain,
that this nation under God shall have a new birth freedom,
and that government of the people, by the people, for the people
shall not perish from the earth"
Abraham Lincoln
As Stella quoted the Gettysburg address verbatim, we were all inspired by the eloquence of the words.
"The muffled drum's sad roll has beat
The soldier's last tattoo;
No more on Life's parade shall meet
That brave and fallen few."
Theodore O'Hara
Theodore O'Hara
Only it seemed to me that it wasn't just a few who fell here, more like over 8000 killed and more than 27,000 wounded. It was time to drive over to Little Round Top and find out more.
"Battles are won by slaughter and maneuver. The greater the general, the more he contributes in maneuver, the less he demands in slaughter"
Winston Churchill
On one of the granite boulders at Little Round Top stands a statue of Union Brigadier General Gouverneur Warren. He looks down surveying the land below scattered with well known sites like The Peach Orchard, The Wheatfield and Plum Run. The anguished ghostly cries rise up and the sun seems to glint off phantom bayonets.
"The brave O'Rorke stops not to ask
The reason for such a hurried task.
But, out of breath,
Leads quickly on his soldiers brave:
The pinnacle of fame to save
And reaches - death."
part of a poem by a member of the 5th New York Zouaves
Colonel Patrick O'Rourke lead a charge over the top of Round Top, his regiment drove back the Confederates from the Western side. He mounted a rock to urge his troops on and was shot in the neck and killed. His face is now immortalized onto the brass plate.
"I always thought the Yankees had something to do with it."
Attributed to Major General George Pickett when asked why the Confederates were defeated at Gettysburg
Every stone memorial seemed to rise up with stories of heroes and their crucial sacrifices to the battle. Gazing down to the topography below I recognized the snipers lair of Devil's Den and where piles of corpses had lain in the Slaughter Pen. Off towards the open ground I could imagine Picketts charge, part of the final push of Confederates, 12,5000 men thrown against the Union artillery and rifle fire. Their final decisive defeat. The loss of fathers, brothers, sons and uncles brought tears down my face.
“The other night I ate at a real nice family restaurant.
Every table had an argument going.”
George Carlin
I was emotionally exhausted from all the death of the day and was relieved when the setting sun brought about thoughts of food and vitality. We drove over to Carrie's old, family friendly restaurant and she enjoyed a table top trip down memory lane.
"Life is uncertain. Eat dessert first."
Ernestine Ulmer
Our trip to Washington DC had been full of plans to learn of government and see the buildings of administration. While we had intended to visit the historical areas of colonial times, the Civil War tours had been an afterthought and we had gone merely because they were close by. As I gazed out at the very hotel where Abraham Lincoln stayed to deliver his address, I was so very glad we had taken the time to create my very own personal experience of Gettysburg.
No comments:
Post a Comment