Hard Core History

“Congress is so strange. 

A man gets up to speak and says nothing. 

Nobody listens - and then everybody disagrees.”

 Boris Marshalov 

Today was the day when we would make history, well not so much make it as go see it and learn all about it.  As one of the 24 million visitors that visit the National Mall in Washington annually, I confess to being a little disappointed.  I couldn't really marvel at the scope of the civic vista due to the construction crews and scaffolding.  It occurred to me the US economic stimulus plan was starting right here.  At one end the Capitol Building was a hive of stadium building for the upcoming Memorial Day celebrations.  In between the Capitol building and the Washington Memorial there looked to be some sort of archeological dig going on which turned out to be replacing the lawn.  Of course, the Washington Memorial was still off limits due to the earthquake and at the other end of the Mall the Reflecting Pools were dry while being rebuilt.  There was still a levy project underway by the World War II memorial and Constitution Ave was also under reconstruction.

"There they are. See no evil, hear no evil, and...evil." 

Bob Dole, watching former presidents Carter, Ford and Nixon 

standing by each other at a White House event.

Who am I to complain about the necessary evils of maintaining the nations monuments? A brief visit 22 years ago had left me with a memory of imposing pillars on official looking buildings, set along a wide tree lined boulevard with monuments dotted about.  I remember the whole place had a flavor of French architecture, which is no wonder considering it was designed by Charles L'Enfant.  In his 1791 plan, he had envisaged gardens alongside grand avenues with an equestrian style Washington Memorial.  This is one of the reasons I just love America, the horse never happened, instead a marble obelisk sightseeing tower was erected and the gardens have given way to useful paved roads. 

L'Enfant was supposed to design the Capitol but instead Thomas Jefferson created a competition where the best design would win a $500 prize and some land.  Jefferson insisted that the building should not be called Congress House but 'The Capitol' in association with the Temple of Jupiter in Rome.

Home to the Senate and the House of Representatives, the Capitol building is a temple to democracy.  It always astounds me how a group of founding fathers a couple of hundred years ago could conceive of a Constitution that is still relevant today.  Although I'm sure that the political parties have changed drastically since those early days.  What I can tell you is the party I'm traveling with is the best.

"The Democrats are the party of government activism, the party that says government can make you richer, smarter, taller, 

and get the chickweed out of your lawn. 

Republicans are the party that says government doesn't work, 

and then get elected and prove it." 

P.J. O'Rourke“

I am so fortunate to have Carrie as the leader of our party.  My wonderful friend, in her ever efficient style, lined us up with a visit to see Congressman Cantor followed with a tour of the Capitol building.  Time to scrub up and get my frock on.

"You walk through a series of arches, so to speak, and then, presently, at the end of a corridor, a door opens and you see backward through time, and you feel the flow of time, and realize you are only part of a great nameless procession.”

 John Huston 

We solemnly filed through security and respectfully attached our visitor badges.  I don't know if it was the presence of political power or if it was viewing the interior of such a famous historical building that made us talk in hushed reverential tones.  We were taken up to the Congressman's office and it became clear the corridors of power are interconnected by a maze of winding staircases.  I kept lagging behind taking photos of the amazing paintings and quotes on the walls and ceiling.  American history is so new in comparison to English antiquity, the colors of the past have not had a chance to fade yet.  History hasn't had a chance to fall into ancient ruin yet, it is still very much alive.  I think the simple wall art messages impressed me the most.

"How can a president not be an actor?"

Ronald Reagan

I got to imagining all the Presidents that had wandered past these very spots and how they must have chosen an empty section of wall and thought 'right, my turn to put up a picture and a quote'.  I suppose I saw it as olden day blogging, Andrea style - picture, quote, picture, quote....  However, we were nearing Congressman Cantors office so it was time to cast my thoughts back to  the present and the politicians of today.

"We must do all that we can, to give our children the best in education and social upbringing - for while they are the youth of today, 

they shall be the leaders of tomorrow."

John F. Kennedy

What struck me the most about the Congressman and his staff were their friendly and open demeanor.  Nothing seemed to much trouble.  The kids were even able to steal a couple of candies from his office while he was on the floor voting.  It was so important for them to see the mechanics of government to have a meaningful, tangible understanding of the democratic process.  We decided to take an even closer look.

"Are my efforts addressing job creation and the economy?  Are they reducing spending?  Are they shrinking the size of federal government while protecting and expanding liberty?  If not, why am I dong it…  Why are we doing it?" Cantor Rule

Filing silently onto the balcony to view the house floor was a slightly nerve racking affair.  Voting for the week had concluded and most Congressmen and women had gone home, back to their constituencies.  After being processed through strict security we were able to sit in silence and listen to a presentation to an almost empty room.  

"He who exercises government by means of his virtue may be compared to the north polar star, which keeps its place and all the stars turn towards it." 

Confucius 

With our own private tour guide the rest of the tour was a little more relaxed.  The crypt was initially intended to house the body of Washington on his death.  However, his will requested his body to stay at Mount Vernon.  In the middle of the crypt is the star which is the point from where the streets of Washington are laid out and numbered.  Radical to think you were standing at the centre of the American Empire.  Yet we were in good company as statue upon statue of Presidents and politicians stood in every spare  nook and cranny.

“My one ambition and my daily prayer is that I may live long enough to make beautiful the Capitol of the one country on earth in which there is liberty.” Constantino Brumidi

From the crypt to the Rotunda, craning upwards I could have been in Italy such is the  fresco of George Washington as a god.  The Apotheosis was painted by Brumidi in 1865 using a 3D technique he had mastered in Rome called 'trompe l'oeil' - fool the eye.  The three words "E pluribus unum" are from the American seal and mean 'one from many'.  The frieze which wraps around the ceiling was started in 1878 by Brumidi.  He was 73 years old and while working on one section he fell off the scaffold and hung onto a rung  for 15 minutes until rescued.  Sadly he died when the freize was only half way through.  More was added by Costaggini in 1889 and then finished by Allyn Cox in 1951. 

 

With 14,500 crystals I was sure glad not be cleaning this chandelier.  Throughout the Capitol building the light fittings and fixtures are simply beautiful.  The amazing sculptors and works of art are reminiscent of a museum rather than a working building.

"If future generations are to remember us more with gratitude than sorrow, we must achieve more than just the miracles of technology. We must also leave them a glimpse of the world as it was created, not just as it looked when we got through with it." Lyndon B Johnson 

Perhaps the first woman President will emerge from the un-carved piece of marble.  It certainly wont be me or Jasmin as neither of us are US born.

"In America, anybody can be president. That's one of the risks you take."

    Adlai Stevenson

Yes, I would have to think long and hard about entering politics.  Maybe the Library of Congress would be a more fitting place for all of us thinkers.  The day had passed quickly.  As we emerged outside, the shadows were starting to fall on the Statue of Freedom gracing the top of the Rotunda.  The statue looks east so the sun never sets on the face of freedom.

“Exhaustion and exasperation are frequently
the handmaidens of legislative decision.”
 Barber B. Conable, Jr

The twilight was a welcome sight after a long day of hardcore history.  Enlightened, but exhausted it was time to discover the joys of Union Station and the metro system.  It seemed befitting that we would ride to L'Enfant station and then wearily walk the rest of the way home.

"the City of Magnificent Intentions.... 

Spacious avenues, that begin in nothing, and lead nowhere" 

Charles Dickens

After feeding and watering the kids, Carrie and I decided on an evening stroll along the spacious avenues.  The sunset cast a magical light over the monuments and the cooler air seemed to hang quietly still in the moment before dark.  

"They fought together as brothers-in-arms. They died together and now they sleep side by side. To them we have a solemn obligation." 

Admiral Chester A. Nimitz 

Walking almost the full length of the National Mall, we came to the World War II Memorial.  The noise of the water added to the hushed reverence as we walked the full circuit around the centre.  Reading and absorbing the inscriptions commemorating the lives laid down in this part of history was a moving experience.  

“I know only two tunes: One of them is 'Yankee Doodle' and the other isn't.”  Ulysses S. Grant

It was time to call it a day and relax over a cocktail at the Willard Hotel.  Fortunately for me Carrie is a most excellent tour guide and was able to fill me in on a little of the history of this renowned hostelry.  President Grant would frequent the hotel and enjoy a cigar and a brandy.  Legend has it that he would be hounded in the lobby by petitioners and would curse those 'damn lobbyists'.  Luckily no one bothered us as we ordered mint juleps and relaxed.