Monsters and Vikings

“It is the great north wind that made the Vikings”

 Scandanavian Proverb

Avoiding a $100 breakfast bill, we headed over to the 24 hour super market and picked up fresh croissants, yoghurts and lunch supplies.  Our 'Super Jeep' driver Sigi introduced himself and by 9am we were headed out of the city into lichen covered lava fields.  

"You may be a redneck if...
you have spent more on your pickup truck than on your education."

Jeff Foxworthy

This morning we were scheduled to experience the "Golden Circle".  The First stop was Thingvellir, the rift valley where two plates of the earth's crust meet.  It was also the site of the Viking Parliament in 930 AD.  In addition Thingvallavatn is here - Iceland's largest natural lake.

"A geologist is a fault-finder."

Anonymous

It was an incredible site to see a huge fissure in the ground, on one side the American plate and the Eurasian plate on the other.  From 930 to 1271 the Althing Viking Parliament assembled at this point.  The Logberg (Law Rock) was the focal point of their judicial and legislative authority, and the elevated stone was a natural platform for speeches.  Every summer for two weeks, the people of Iceland would flock to the assembly.  They would stay in a temporary shelter built from turf and rocks.  I suppose it would have been like an ancient Midnight Sun Festival.

“I hear lake water lapping with low sounds by the shore. . . .

I hear it in the deep heart's core.”

 William Butler Yeats

We made another quick stop to stare into another fault that was filled with deep, clear water.  A bridge was erected so a Danish King could cross here and he threw a coin in for luck.  100 years later and the rocky bottom revealed hundreds of Krona coins glinting in the sunlight.  Years ago, this was where the witches were thrown in a bag and drowned, perhaps not such a lucky spot for them.

I am here tracing the History of the Earth itself, from its own Monuments. 

— Jean André Deluc

We were following a tight schedule and quickly clambered back into the Super Jeep and drove upwards and onwards.  Shortly we arrived at Gullfloss (Golden Falls), supposedly golden due to the end of the rainbow permanently stationed above it.  The mist hung in the air while the water gushed into a deep crevice.  The power of the glacial water disappeared into a huge fissure in the ground, it was truly an awe-inspiring moment.  It is easy to believe the story of Sigridur Tomasdottir, the girl who saved the waterfall.  In the early 1900's, Sigridur's father Tomas owned the farm next to the waterfall.  He refused to sell his "friend", Gullfloss, when he was offered money by financiers looking to harness the hydro electric potential.  His daughter began her crusade to save the falls and even walked barefoot to Reykjavik to protest against the building of a power plant.

"Try not to have a good time... this is supposed to be educational."

Charles M. Schulz

Off in the distance was our afternoon destination, Langjokull, Iceland's second largest glacier.  Our mission was to ride snowmobiles.  Between then and now I had to convince one of the other passengers that having one of my kids ride pillion with them would be fun.  So far, I had got 2 for 2 refusals and it was starting to become a real quest.  Granted, my hunt in Iceland's interior was still easier than the recent explorations of an  Italian research group. The Italians had been in search of the Holy Grail.  A bizarre story with some basis of truth.  According to the records, it is thought that a group of Knights Templar visited the Althing in 1271.  Perhaps they were looking for a secret place to hide relics.   The logic pervades that the vault would only have summer access if it was in Iceland.   Further evidence of the Iceland connection can be found from codes left in Dante's and Da Vinci's works of art.

"Tis distance lends enchantment to the view, 

and robes the mountain in its azure hue."

Thomas Campbell

The craggy, arid scenery was incredible as we ground our way over cinder roads towards the frozen white vision ahead.  The open windswept desolation made the jeep feel claustrophobic.  

"You see, I don't know how to ride a motorcycle, actually."

Henry Winkler

I was glad to arrive at camp snowmobile.  We donned all in one overalls and helmets.  Unfortunately the helmets and orange kid suits made Jazz and Josh look like Charlie Brown motocross fugitives.  Kitted up and ready to go I suddenly got very nervous, I don't like motorbikes and I don't know how to ride one.  Would I even be able to manage a snowmobile? What had I gotten myself into?  I had managed to get Jazz a ride, so Josh was with me.  

"30 Below is only cold if your snowmobiling naked".  

Unknown

The cold wind sliced across my face and stirred some childhood snowy memories.  As we revved across the snow packed ice, the sense of power I had over the machinery put a huge manic grin across my face.  The snow stretched out as far as the eye could imagine, yet up close the white sheet was pock marked with discolorations.  Slashes of ski tracks from previous riders scarred the undulating slopes.  Mountains reared up in the far distance, ridges of brown shale blemished the milky slopes.  The icy breeze dried my teeth into a perma-grin.  I felt so alive, so joyous, the imagined danger increasing my vitality as we rode deeper into the glacial territory.  It was hard to tell the glacier was underneath the hard packed snow but sections glowed with a pale neon blue from the frozen antiquity beneath.  I felt so at home up here in the white wilds, perhaps I was actually part Viking.  Maybe one of my ancestors had been carried off by Norse men.  My inner chameleon started to channel Helga, the nordic speed junkie and I kept getting poked back to reality by the responsible conscience over my shoulder (Josh).

"She knows not where she's going, 

For the road will decide - 

It's not the destination....

....it's the glory of the ride" 

Zen Dog

Jasmin had hitched a ride with Umi, a slender Japanese girl.  They were way back, trailing behind the pack and riding much slower than me.  I tried hard to be zen about her enjoying the experience alone, there was little I could do at this point.

"Faster, faster, faster, 

until the thrill of speed overcomes the fear of death"

Hunter S. Thompson 

The exhilaration was still increasing for me as we turned for home.  We flew past a half frozen blue lake that was part of the glacier.  The ride back was far too quick, even though the return route was a little more challenging as the snow was softer, creating more bumps and ridges.  Dismounting, the kids were frozen and jolted, but I was still euphoric.  While grinning like an idiot and expressing my jubilation to any one who listened, I realized that I had enjoyed the ride way more than anyone else.  Or maybe I'm just no good at keeping not so cheap thrills to myself anymore.  

"Love is a snowmobile racing across the tundra and then suddenly it flips over, pinning you underneath. At night, the ice weasels come."

Matt Groening

Josh had a few choice words to impart when we returned to base about mother's terrible speed addiction nearly killing him.  Although, his visual guilt trip did little to deflate my adrenaline high.  I think the spin over the ice also invigorated Sigi as he was much more animated on the return down from the highlands.  He was a self confessed Viking aficionado and I plied him with questions of tales of old as we drove back towards  the ocean.

"Life leaps like a geyser for those who drill through the rock of inertia."

Alexis Carrel 

The penultimate stop was Haukadalur, site of the famous Geysir (the original hot water spouting spring that all other geysers are named after).  The name is derived from the old Norse verb 'geysa' to gush.  Changed slightly into 'geyser' this is one of the only Icelandic words in the English language.  It is thought Geysir starting erupting over 10,000 years ago, but wouldn't you know it, Geysir is not as frequent as it was, erupting only 2 or 3 times a day.  However, the Haukadalur geothermal area also includes mud pools, fumaroles (smoke and gas vents) and Strokkur.  This geyser regularly spouts  a column of boiling water up to 30 meters high.  With only a 5 minute wait, the steam and the crowd grow in anticipation and then whoosh "th'ar she blows."

“Volcano: A mountain with hiccups”

Unknown

We were getting worn out from all the sightseeing and had wet shoes and socks from the snowmobiling. After the obligatory tourist souvenir shop it was time to head home.  There was one last natural phenomenon that Sigi wanted to show us.  You've heard of Barefoot Wine well I had barefoot whiners at this point.  The kids ditched their soggy footwear and went barefoot to see the old volcanic crater now filled with a lake.  Luckily there was easy access along a smooth tarmac path.  The five o'clock sun was certainly lower in the sky and the temperature dropped further as the bite of the wind chill from the south made itself known.  It was quite a drive back to the city, but with true professionalism, Sigi kept the kids entertained with drug and ghost stories.  Apparently a gentleman farmer had been claiming to grow greenhouse after greenhouse of tomato plants, needless to say the many visits he received from Reykjavik residents gave the game away.  As the road climbed over the moors, the mist rolled in and set an eerie scene for the stories of trolls and the 'hidden' people of Iceland. When we passed the new thermal power plant it signaled our almost arrival back at the hotel.  It had been an informative and exhilarating day.  Considering we'd only had 48 hours, I was glad the kids had survived Iceland and I had embraced my inner Helga.  

"You will see, ..... 

that a creature more intelligent than the Icelandic horse does not exist. 

Snow, storms, blocked paths, rocks, glaciers- nothing stops him. 

He is brave, he is cautious, he is reliable. 

Never a foot wrong, never a false reaction." 

Jules Verne

Like the unique Icelandic horses, Icelanders are hardy, prevailing souls who overcome remote and harsh conditions.  These people conquer the unimaginable natural ferocities of volcanoes, earthquakes and rigorous weather extremes.  Reticent at first, with a little encouragement this small population will show you a warm welcome, a sample of their fierce national pride and will amuse you with dry wit and savvy insights.  This isolated place Iceland is full of Viking legends and ancient natural wonders yet modern and efficient in technologies and energy.  The cold ice of this place is definitely melted by the warm hearts of the people.