Saturday, May 12, 2012

The point of the devil?

It finally happened.  I got the GPS lady so confused, she said,
"In one-quarter mile, make a legal stop and ask directions."
Robert Brault
Any doubters whatsoever as to the capability of a fully loaded Prius on a four wheel drive road (or for that matter its capacity for an informal sand spin) can rest assured, the electrically charged can charge through it all.  Needless to say, somewhere between point A  (Punta Del Este) and point B (Punta Del Diablo), we found ourselves off road at point C. What about the inner journey I hear you cry?  What about losing yourself in order to find yourself?  Well this was not actually the road less travelled, it had several large ruts distinguishing it as a well worn farm track.  Indeed we did come up close and personal with many of these agricultural type vehicles.  To while away the extra couple of hours on the detour, Kit and I chatted about the Tudors and the TV merits of Jonathan Rhys Myers as afore mentioned Royal.  Meanwhile the kids expended 3 bush toilet stops for every mouthful of water consumed.   Sounds like a journey from hell?  Well actually it was a journey to hell, to the Point of the Devil.  
The whole Atlantic coast from Punta Del Este to the Brazilian border is breathtaking. Empty white sand beaches, blue rolling seas, reflecting azure skies dotted with powderpuff clouds.  Usually, it's a three hour drive along good roads with hardly any traffic.  About 40kms before the border town of Chuy there is a turn off to Punta del Diablo.  This fishing and artisan village with colorful unique houses and a laid back atmosphere reminded me of Jeffrey's Bay, South Afirca.  With a history of pirates and debauchery it sounded like the perfect place to take a vacation from our vacation.


"The devil is fond of his own." 
Galician Proverb


This is a place where the sand dunes roll down to the granite boulders and the ocean spray.  There are mystic wisps of stories of European Pirates roaming these sea centuries ago.  However any certain historical facts span from only a few decades past. The town's beginnings seem to stem from a weak asthmatic child.  In 1935, Lirio, one of Laureano Rocha's ten children, was advised to dwell by the ocean to regain his health.  The family built a small ranch on land owned by the Martinez family (huge tracts of the land in the area are still owned by the Martinez family).  Lirio fared well in the sunshine and fresh air.  Then during the 1940's fishermen arrived in the area, many decendents from the stormy Galician coast in Spain.  The small wooden boats are still dragged up the beach daily and the catch sold.  

Words divide us, actions unite us." 
Slogan of the Tupamaros


In the 1960's the boats were put to slightly different use.  Uruguay's urban guerrillas were the leftist Tupamaros fighting against the military dictatorship with tactics such as robbing banks, raiding gun depots and kidnapping dignitaries.  Operating out of Punta Diablo the Pinta Roja fishing boat routinely snuck Tupamaros into Brazil during fishing runs.  However, one day the vessel never returned and was assumed sunk - perhaps by a navy gunboat?  Today the boats just have to avoid the odd surfer or sunbather.


"I could not help concluding this man 
had the most supreme pleasure 
while he was driven so fast and so smoothly by the sea" 
Captain James Cook.
The beach front area is an eclectic mix of funky surf shops, restaurants and roadside stands.  Many of the places were only open on the weekend as it was past the summer season, but I kinda like that feeling of semi closed down for the winter.  Not having to hassle through crowds but still able to enjoy a late lunch overlooking the ocean warmed by the afternoon sun.



Zero Stress Cafe really was just that, kicking back sinking a beer watching the kids go rock hopping on the beach.  Best I save some room for that Italian dinner tonight.



"A piece of spaghetti or a military unit 
can only be led from the front end."
George S. Patton


Go Josh ride that pasta pony!  I think I've found the best lasagna ever, in the most unlikely place in the world.  It was definately the biggest piece of lasaga I ever managed to shovel down in one sitting!


Everything you see I owe to spaghetti. Sophia Loren

You can take the girl out of California and .... she immediately goes into a carbo loading frenzy!  What the hey its my birthday!  I'm at the Point of the Devil so why the devil not!  



"Anybody can exercise…but this kind of lethargy takes real discipline" 
Garfiled the Cat

Breakfast delivered to our cute little townhouse, all thats left to do is crawl into the hammock and enjoy the view.  Each house in this amazing town is unique and vying with it's neighbor to be more original and unusual.


“There are three forms of visual art: Painting is art to look at, 
sculpture is art you can walk around, 
and architecture is art you can walk through”
Dan Rice


No comments:

Post a Comment