Dumb Blonde Adventures: Uruguay Urugwhere?

"Every exit is an entry somewhere else."

Tom Stoppard

Uruguay? Urug-where? Flying overnight from Miami was the first time I'd been on a half full plane to anywhere in a very long time. We stretched out over a couple of seats and arrived in fairly good shape as we all got some sleep during the 11 hour flight to 34 degrees south. Uruguay is a kind of buffer zone. It's a small country on the Atlantic coast tucked in between Argentina and Brazil. In fact, for several centuries Argentina, Brazil, Spain, Portugal and even England fought over this valuable piece of real estate along the strategic River Plate. Finally Uruguay gained independence in 1828, which makes it the 2nd smallest country in South America - about the size of Washington State. Uruguay has 3.3 million people with half of them living in the capital of Montevideo. It's Spanish speaking, of course, but there's not much in the way of indigenous cultures, its mostly a mix of Spanish and Italian immigrants. Lots of Argentinians and Brazilians holiday there in the summer and many have properties that lie empty for the rest of the year. It's prosperous, safe, has good schools, hospitals and roads, and feels very 1st world. Everyone kisses each other on the cheek, even men, which says a lot about the nature of the people here.

“Ancient lovers believed a kiss would literally unite their souls, because the spirit was said to be carried in one's breath.”

Eve Glicksman

But, I wasn't about to kiss anyone the way my mouth felt on arrival into Montevideo.

"Another term for balloon is bad breath holder."

Demetri Martin

Landing at the airport was a lovely, clean, organized, shiny surprise. Electronically beckoned forward to the immigration desk, we were stamped in and wandered into the bright advertising lights of the sweet smelling duty free. Clean and bright everywhere, we wheeled towards the real world. One last luggage X-ray check and we were ejected into the land of MacDonald's and Avis. I quickly realized the dialect of Uruguay was quite different from Central America and ordering a drink put my linguistic skills back to square one. No matter, I was in an amazing architectural space. I could just wander round saying nothing. The gentle, curved, 1200 feet, monolithic roof of the airport has a low profile, the flowing lines reflecting the undulating countryside of Uruguay. Glasswalls on all sides are held up by tiny structures, filling the place with natural light. I have to give it my favorite airport in the world award.

“…dramatic and welcoming spaces for those who aren't traveling

as well as those who are.”

Rafael Viñoly

Steve and Kit were also a welcome site, familiar faces picking us up in a familiar American truck. Life in Punta del Este was most certainly agreeing with them and their wonderful welcome into their home and life was most appreciated.

"Let us be grateful to people who make us happy, they are the charming gardeners who make our souls blossom." Marcel Proust

Punta del Este is a resort town on the Atlantic Ocean, it has mild weather and about 7500 people year round with another 150,000 arriving with the summer tourist invasion. The skyline is peppered with high rise buildings and a sweeping esplanade which curves around a peninsula into a harbor. The La Brava side has the waves and La Mansa side is much more protected.

At the end of the 1800's the whole area of Punta del Este and Punta Ballena were sand dunes. In 1896, Antonio Lussich bought 1800 hectares of land and planted it with trees and plants from around the world. Now the whole place has pines, eucalyptus and acacias.

Settling in with the Groner family was all too easy in their beautiful quincho thatched home. A delightful thatched parrilla (bbq) entertainment area and stunning lap pool adorn the back garden. Inside the house has been upgraded with amazing finishes, the whole project a labor of love over the past 8 months.

After picking Carey up from his bi-lingual school, the kids happily played while Kit and I cooked dinner and drank wine while catching up on all our news. It had certainly been a very soft landing into South America.

Tomorrow's plan was to spend the day at Bikini Beach. Okay, so I wasn't in a bikini but I still had fun.

“Our memories of the ocean will linger on,

long after our footprints in the sand are gone.”

Anonymous

It was amazing how quickly we fell into a routine with the Groner family, breakfast with Kits home made peanut butter and dinners together at the big round table. The German engineered super efficient stove emanating a warm cozy embrace onto our extended family while enjoying delicious food and conversation.

Our Sunday excursion would be to a dairy in search of good cheese and entertainment.

"I never saw a purple cow.

I never hope to see one.

But I can tell you anyhow

I'd rather see than be one."

Gelett Burgess

"Without a Coca-Cola life is unthinkable." Henry Miller

"I believe in angels, the kind Heaven sends.

I am surrounded by angels, but I call them my best friends."

Anonymous

What a wonderful way to spend the afternoon. Down in the country with the goats and the cows. The working dairy farm had horse rides and the usual restaurant trappings, but it was a beautiful sunny afternoon for wandering around in the fresh air with friends. Mmm, all that fresh air definitely makes you hungry for impressive homemade cupcakes.